When Henri-Lloyd’s Ocean Pro range launched at Metstrade and was shortlisted for the DAME Awards, it set a new benchmark. From the well-known pioneering British brand that has never been afraid to approach challenges differently, this latest offshore offering has been created in response to feedback from Imoca champion Sam Goodchild and others seeking a high-performance solution to a shift in raceboat design and the corresponding changing demands on sailors.
Central to Ocean Pro’s evolution has been the world’s first four-layer Hybrid Membrane Stretch Fabric, exclusively developed by Henri-Lloyd in conjunction with a specialist laminating mill in Japan. It provides survival-grade waterproofing (35k) combined with excellent breathability (14k). This lightweight, bespoke fabric has been engineered to protect those pushing the limits in the toughest ocean conditions, for whom performance is everything.
Input from Goodchild and other Henri- Lloyd ambassadors reflects an increasing acknowledgement at elite level of the marginal gains that clothing technology can unlock. In today’s racing, minutes matter – even over oceans – and increased comfort over sustained periods directly correlates to greater performance capabilities.
Now, Ocean Pro is enabling sailors of all levels to benefit from this dynamic thinking.
Leading on the project is head of design, Matteo Alfieri. ‘Our development of the four-layer stretch fabric and the use of precision pattern cutting has enabled us to take a completely new approach to ergonomics and to design functionality into the range in an entirely new way.,’ he explains. ‘The result is a modular concept; we are proud to introduce the world’s first fully zipped Hybrid Smock, which overturns existing design concepts by combining the protection of a smock with the ventilation and accessibility of a jacket.
‘The range also includes jackets and salopettes that have been designed separately for men’s and women’s fits, and which include a multitude of features allowing sailors to tailor their outer-shell protection to any given conditions. For example, detachable neoprene storm-skirts, collars and face masks.
‘We are also delighted to have set new standards in sustainability, by using 100 per cent recycled fabrics and producing both the hydrophilic membrane and microporous outer coating without chemicals, which is an industry first.’
Alfieri goes on to describe the Ocean Pro range as the most challenging thing he has ever designed. His expertise ranges from sports to automotive design, and with a smile he likens Henri-Lloyd’s new range to designing an ultra-modern supercar, with tradition set aside so form follows from the use of breakthrough materials, and where intuitive controls enable anyone to take the wheel.
Henri-Lloyd’s new four-layer fabric is an advanced iteration of that developed for its Dynamic Motion grand prix/inshore range, which was highly waterproof but, made from just three layers to maximise breathability, not sufficiently robust to withstand offshore conditions. To elevate its capabilities yet further for Ocean Pro, Henri-Lloyd and the mill specialists pushed the boundaries in constructing a new fabric. They re-engineered layer thickness, mesh quality, coatings (for the hydrophilic membrane and durable water repellent (DWR) outer layer) and glue, producing a new structure optimised for offshore protection.
Underpinning this, and in line with Henri-Lloyd’s commitment to sustainability, was an ambition to develop a high-performance DWR outer coating and inner membrane completely without the use of dangerous “forever chemicals”. At the point when development began, around three years ago, although DWR coatings were required to be free of perfluorochemicals (PFCs), chemical use in membrane fabric was unregulated. With no comparable solutions yet developed, this was new territory.
‘It was a critical point in the development process,’ says Alfieri. ‘When you are using fabric that is pioneering, not standard, anything can happen.’
Indeed, prototype testing of the chemical-free materials revealed marbling on the outer surface indicating migration between the membrane and outer coating. The solution was an additional coating to prevent slippage, essentially a fifth layer. The resulting material establishes new sustainability standards, being free of both perfluorooctanoic acids (PFOAs) and PFCs, while retaining exceptional waterproof and breathable ratings.
Weighing in 18 per cent lighter than comparable materials, four-layer feels and moves differently, far more supple than traditional fabrics and with a silky feel. Its inherent two-way stretch derives from the construction of the fabric and the mechanics of the weave pattern.
In the increasingly physical sporting environment that offshore sailors face, ease of movement is everything. Bias-cut Y panels double the stretch and flexibility in key areas. The streamlined cut gives a close-fitting form. The sporty aesthetic is accentuated by photoluminescent detailing to the torso, giving an athletic silhouette for men and a more elegant shaping for women, while doubling as a visibility feature for safety.
Undoubtedly the hero product of the range is the Hybrid Smock, simultaneously offering smock-style protection and jacketstyle ease-of-donning and ventilation. It represents a new way of thinking about a new era of sailing; where covered cockpits, for example, in the Imoca necessitate lightning-speed transitions from undercover to on-deck, placing varied demands on sailors and kit alike.
Alternatively, the Ocean Pro Jacket option includes a cropped storm flap for uncompromised weather sealing, two-way zippers and breeze clip for secure fit while venting the zips. Familiar Henri-Lloyd innovation comes in the Optivision Hood System, while a new stretch-fabric envelope pocket cleverly accommodates bulk without inhibiting neck movement.
The salopettes have Cordura stretch reinforcing over EVA foam cushioning on the seat and knees, increasing comfort and minimising fatigue for those wanting to sail harder for longer. The women’s fit has carefully positioned chest pockets and a drop seat for convenience; it has been well-received among professional sailor testers such as Maggie Adamson and Holly Manvell.
With its modular nature, Ocean Pro negates the need for multiple clothing options. Instead, sailors have one adaptable, lightweight, quick-dry garment for top and bottom, reflecting a more sustainable mindset.
This forward-thinking range is the result of more than 500 metres of fabric samples, 11,520 hours of design time, and 50,000 miles of real-world testing, during which an intensive review process with a select group of elite sailors informed every decision from function and positioning to ergonomics and aesthetics.
Every detail is eye-catching but is placed there with purpose and precision, having been extensively trialled by pros facing real extremes on the water. The rubberised H-hanger is engineered for strength. Velcro closure patches are neatly recessed. Tailored darts minimise bulk around cuffs enclosures. Embossed high-rise print is chosen for its quality over standard embroidery. Again, Alfieri’s inspiration comes from the automotive world in slick lines and fine details, such as the photoluminescent union flag used on the cuff tabs, blending style and safety.
Ocean Pro is intended as the outer layer in a three-layer system. Henri-Lloyd’s Merino 200 base provides highly breathable next-to-skin warmth, thanks to its seamless knitted structure with waffled sections trapping heat while wicking away moisture.
For the mid-layer, Alfieri points to recently launched SmartTherm Pro. This is also designed with pro sailors’ feedback, which identified scope for a waterproof, insulated mid-layer eliminating the need for sailors to layer up every time they venture on deck.
Comprising unisex jacket, salopettes and gilet, this stylish range is another ingenious gamechanger, once again made possible by Henri-Lloyd’s advances in fabric, working with the same specialist mill in Japan. It’s ultra-flexible, for wear as a stand-alone item, or teamed with Ocean Pro for ultimate ocean protection.
SmartTherm Pro’s outer shell is light and waterproof (20k), with exceptional breathability (40k) and a tear strength of 27N x 25N – double that of the original SmartTherm fabric. Made with DRI PRO two-layer technology incorporating 100 per cent recycled nylon from waste textiles, both membrane and water-resistant outer coating are free from PFOA chemicals which is another step forward in sustainability.
Warmth comes from zoned insulation made from Vivo Ocean. Another example of Henri-Lloyd’s pioneering use of sustainable materials, this is made from PET plastics reclaimed from the ocean. Thanks to laser-cut perforations of optimal size for breathability, this insulation transfers an additional 30 per cent of moisture away from the body, balancing warmth retention with comfort. That the insulation is almost perceptible through the pale, translucent lining material is, according to Alfieri, a visual reminder of the technology that powers this range.
To position insulation where it’s most needed, minimising overheating and sweat molecule accumulation, Alfieri analysed body-heat mapping technology. In high-heat areas where insulation isn’t required, a layer of lycra-stretch soft shell provides comfort over extended wear periods. Elsewhere, insulation is highly targeted: 150gsm on the body and 100gsm on the sleeves of the jacket; 60gsm on the torso and 100gsm on the legs of the salopettes.
Joining these different weight fabrics together was a challenge for Henri-Lloyd’s designers. To do this and maintain the low-profile cut of a high-performance midlayer, Alfieri sourced an adhesive that was pioneered in running shoe manufacture. This creates a strong join without adding weight or bulk of unnecessary seams.
SmartTherm Pro is another example of Henri-Lloyd’s precision design creating comfort and enhancing sailor performance. And as with the Ocean Pro range, close attention to detail by Alfieri and his team has seen form blend with function, with details such as soft-stretch cuffs and hems, fleece-lined pockets, H-hanger, reflective logos, and YKK AquaGuard waterproof zips again adding to the overall performance.
For sailors such as Goodchild, who spend long periods wearing mid-layers while racing, the innovative SmartTherm Pro provides the perfect balance of warmth, breathability, waterproofing and functionality, which he aptly describes as his “go-to layer for on the water”.
Now, thanks to Henri-Lloyd, the benefits of this radical offshore layering system can be accessed by any sailor, whether racing or cruising. Sure, Henri-Lloyd has pushed aside the conventions of offshore attire, but for those willing to embrace innovation, the performance gains are there to be had.
